
A traveler’s primer to Sichuan food (and how to order it)
Mala is a balance, not a dare. A practical guide to hotpot, noodles, tea and the phrases that make dinner easier.
Read the noteField notes · Vol. 01
Written from Chengdu · Updated monthlyPractical writing from the province we know. Not “ten things to do”, but the hour, the street, the order to eat things in.

A two-day landing that leaves room for tea, pandas and the particular pleasure of doing less.
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Mala is a balance, not a dare. A practical guide to hotpot, noodles, tea and the phrases that make dinner easier.
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Chengdu is 500 m. Tagong is 3,700 m. Yading’s lakes are above 4,500 m. Here is how to make that jump safely.
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Autumn colour, winter closures, timed entry and a shuttle strategy that keeps the valley feeling wild.
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How to dress, walk, photograph and behave in the Tibetan areas of western Sichuan — without turning people into scenery.
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High-speed trains, mountain buses, private drivers and the roads where the map is optimistic.
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Ordering, refills, ear cleaning and the art of sitting still in a city that runs on tea.
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The unglamorous details that decide whether a Sichuan trip feels easy: entry rules, mobile payments, tickets, connectivity and what to carry.
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The slow letter
New field notes, route ideas and the occasional strong opinion about breakfast.